Introduction

Having introduced the theoretical frameworks of this book, the following chapter provides a theorization of the changing nature of beauty, style and fashion. Various historical and contemporary normalized, accepted and culturally celebrated harmful and harming practices will be explored, emphasizing how fashion and style have long shown a connection with harmful and harming practices. Following this, an examination of how late modernity has accelerated and amplified the harmful and harming practices and processes related to the use and supply of beauty and fashion will be unpacked, highlighting the extent to which potential harms exist on a larger scale than previously recognized. As such, this chapter continues to explore the hyper-connectedness of consumers and sellers and the online and offline.

A history of fashion trends and harmful practices

Fashion before neoliberalism

Fashion and style have been an integral part of human culture for centuries. While trends are constantly changing and vary across cultures, the extent to which individuals will go to stay abreast with new styles has been consistent throughout history and dates back to periods preceding the dominance of neoliberal ideology (David, 2015). From fashionable clothing that has led to mechanical alterations and modifications of the natural body, to extreme dieting to achieve a certain body shape, individuals have long engaged in practices that can cause significant harm to the self and the broader societal and environmental landscapes.

Fashion trends have traditionally been heavily gendered, with certain styles and body shapes associated with masculinity and femininity (Grogan, 2022).